Cloud cover and cooler conditions are most welcome today, our sixth day onboard the Wicked William, after enduring England’s hottest day on record yesterday. With temperatures peaking at 40 degrees Celsius (in the shade) we struggled on the open waters of the canals, with little shelter from the trees, high humidity, and a mix of flies and mosquitoes, that both bite. The lead up to yesterday’s hot conditions was preceded by two days of increasing humidity and temperatures and anyone who knows me, knows I am not a fan of either. Even the couple of pubs we stopped at over the past few days provided little reprieve as they do not have air conditioning here. Finding a shop, accommodation or cafe with air-con is rare. I suspect, if this increase in hot weather continues, air cooling could be a boom industry in the UK in the very near future. Our little boat certainly did not provide any cool relief, so some nights have been challenging. Regardless, we have managed through, a little burnt for our efforts, a little fatigued but still rather painless. The efforts to shade our shelves with an umbrella while trying to manoeuvre the boat were clearly worth it.
Wicked William, is a four berth, narrow boat, designed like a caravan inside but with sleek lines and a rudder on the outside. Manufactured by British marines, Wicked William has a 35 horse power motor and chugs along at a cruising speed of four miles per hour (the canal current is about three miles per hour, so do the maths!) The canal that we chose to travel on this week is the Llangollen canal, meandering through the picturesque regions of parts of England and Wales. Britain boasts hundreds of canal routes and the choice is plentiful from short day trips to permanent homes cruising the waterways. Some 3,300 Brit’s live on their boats permanently, as it is a much cheaper option than owning there home or rent. One couple, in particular, have owned their boat for thirty five years, that is their second boat, they have been on the canal for fifty years and still loving it.
The appeal for us, as novice sailors, was minimal locks, scenic waterways and the historic Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.
Our induction to canal boating on Saturday, took over an hour and after Allan, Whittington Wharf boat operator, was satisfied we understood the fundamentals of boating safety, operation and layout, he took us for a short cruise down the canal. With the propensity to chat, Allan, a kind and jovial man, provided lots of instruction and encouragement. He clearly knows a thing or two about boats and farming, so we found out as we cruised along. Eventually, Allan disembarked and left us to our own devices. Feeling quite nervous, we were going just fine, until about an hour into the journey when we struck a bit of bother. Coming through the first lock was smooth as butter and we were so proud of our efforts. An effective system had been set in place - Daryl would operate the locks and I would drive the boat through. I quickly got the hang of the process and managed to steer the boat smoothly into the lock (usually) hold him from hitting either lock door, and then steer him out easily. However, the second lock, located not ten minutes later, rocked our confidence within seconds. The outgoing current was strong and we quickly drifted into the wash, unbeknownst to us collecting a large banner along the way. In my efforts to get the boat back into the middle of the canal, the banner wrapped itself around the propeller and shut the engine down. With some effort, sweat and few choice phrases we got the boat to the edge and securely moored up.
With minimal equipment to try and remove it, Daryl tried valiantly with the blunt kitchen knives and scissors to get the banner loose. What we didn’t know was the banner had stretch cables attached to its ends and these were well and truly tangled. We also didn’t know the banner was about four metres long and one meter wide, left behind by by the canal Trust since 2014. The Canal Trust is meant to be the organisation looking after the waterways, they should be the last people to be littering. With bloodied knuckles, greasy knees and sweat pouring, Daryl finally relented and help was called. Within half an hour the mechanic was onsite and after inspecting the problem, quickly changed into overalls and got some appropriate tools including a hacksaw! The culprit was soon unravelled, in pieces, and our young mechanic also returned from under the propeller hatch, with bloodied knuckles and greasy knees. We were now good to go and the engine fired up without issue. Not the start we wanted, and it was good to get back on the waterway.
Our first day we travelled just near the town of Chirk and moored up right near the pathway to the Bridge Inn, a small county pub, with delicious food and a pool table. I enjoyed the food more than the games of pool, as I lost each one. It also took some adjustment to get used to the greeting of ‘are you ok then’ when you entered a bar or cafe. It translates to ‘hello, how are you, what can I do for you?!’
That night we slept like the dead, I suspect the gentle rocking of the canal, no neighbours or traffic and the stress of our first trip added to our fatigue. The second day dawned bright and cheery and we were delighted to receive a message from my cousin Jenny inviting us to meet her, and her husband Pete, for lunch given we were in the area, near where they live. This was a wonderful opportunity, previous to this we have only communicated by email or messenger. We chose to met them at the Chirk Marina, not too far from us.
Travelling over our first aqueduct, the Chirk Aqueduct, was completed in 1801 and spans 216 meters across the Ceiriog Valley on 10 arches, each 21 metres high and with a span of 12 metres. Running alongside the aqueduct is the Chirk Viaduct carrying the Chester to Shrewsbury rail-line. It stands nine metres above the aqueduct and was built between 1846-1848, but had to be rebuilt in 1858. Both structures are an engineering feat, which would be hard to match today. Pleased with our efforts we continued to our our next piece of engineering mastery, the Chirk Tunnel. Built in 1801 this brick lined tunnel is 420 metres long and is the longest of three tunnels on the Llangollen Canal. Taking us nine minutes to pass through, the tunnel is lighted only by the single light on the narrowboat. Pedestrians can walk the tunnel along a narrow concrete path with a small rail to stop them falling into the canal. A torch would be necessary for this walk it is very dark inside and delightfully cool.
Finally we made it to the Chirk Marina and we were greeted by a man who quickly informed us the marina had shutdown but we could moor if we wanted. Hundreds of other boats, in various states of working condition, looked as if they were permanently housed at the marina. Unaware the marina was located so far from town, we had little choice but to wait for our ride. Happy to rest up for a bit, I was rudely shocked by a loud crashing sound into our boat shortly after settling. Turns out another couple of novice sailors, more inept than us, forgot to moor their boat securely, allowing the back end to be taken by the current for a little trip ending when it slammed into our vessel. The man who initially greeted us ran from his office, yelling and I watched with amusement from inside our cabin. Daryl stood on the deck and made way for the helper to cross over our deck so he could move the invading vessel from our waters. The couple driving the boat, obviously French were all a fluster and French vocabulary was heard in rapid succession. Amused, we noted no damage to poor William and headed off to meet Jenny and Pete in the carpark.
Meeting people for the first time that you know, but don’t, is always a bit strange. Jenny is my late father’s niece but we have never met, only conversing the last couple of years through Facebook. Jenny and Pete arrived and it was like meeting old friends - easy company, full of grand stories and just so very welcoming. They even brought us a gift of wine and cider for our canal cruise. Just so thoughtful. We hope we didn’t disappoint them in return. Again, you never know what picture of yourselves you have painted through emails, Facebook, and the like; hopefully reality is accurately reflected ( we obviously have our drink preferences down pat!)
After initial greetings, the suggestion of journeying to Chirk Castle was presented to us and we nearly squealed with joy as it was definitely on our list to visit. Thus we spent a most delightful afternoon, enjoying lunch at the castle, an excellent tour and finished with coffee and cake, off course. Chirk Castle ( Castell y Waun) now maintained by the National Trust, was built in the late 13th century and served as a border fortress for 300 years. In 1595 Sir Thomas Myddleton bought the castle, with the intention of turning it into a grand family home.The family owned the castle for more than 400 years. In 1981 the National Trust took over ownership of the castle and the 480 acres of the estate. Again this castle offers visitors an opportunity to explore a time we cannot begin to comprehend. Grand, sound and offering majestic views, the Chirk Castle is a great way to spend a few hours. My favourite room was the library, hosting hundreds of books, the oldest dating back to 518 AD! Our afternoon ended with a quick tour of Wicked William, with Jenny and Pete, before bidding them goodbye. Cruising along for another couple of hours we moored up in a quiet area just before the famous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct ready for tomorrow’s crossing. After a dinner of toasted cheese sandwiches, a few games of cards, winnings favouring Daryl, we called it quits.
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct became a world heritage site in 2009. At 307 metres long, 3.6 metres wide, 1.6 metres deep it is the longest and highest aqueduct in Britain and carries the canal 38 metres above the River Dee. It consists of 18 piers and 19 arches, each with a span of 13.7 metres, built hollow at the top to reduce the weight. Taking ten years to build, it was opened in 1805. There is a towpath mounted above the trough and pedestrians can walk the length of the aqueduct, with a railing on the side for their protection. But there is no railing on the other side and boaters feel as if they are suspended in mid air. We crossed the aqueduct in strong winds, so had only a few brave walkers were along the towpath. The crossing is spectacular, it is also daunting and takes a lot of courage to look over the edge. The views are breathtaking but the constant knocking of the boat against the trough is a little disconcerting. Once across you are met with a very sharp left hand turn to continue on the canal. There is a shop situated on the bend, and many pedestrians enjoy their lunch while watching the challenges boats have navigating this route. The length of boat is definitely worth consideration when hiring. Daryl and I helped a couple and their two children who were trying desperately to turn the vessel, at one stage the woman nearly went into the murky waters - concentrating so hard pulling the tow rope she nearly forgot to let go.
Our destination was the little village of Llangollen and we arrived late in the afternoon, after an enjoyable cruising time on the waterways for several hours. Choosing to moor at the marina, we were surprised to find ourselves docked next to our Frenchy friends from the Chirk marina! Settling in, we went for a walk to explore the gorgeous town. Built around the Dee River (spectacular all on its on), the village also boasts a heritage railway line, which off course we booked tickets to travel on that afternoon. Disappointingly the steam train was out of service so we had to settle for the diesel engine. Lunch was enjoyed at a cafe on the banks of the River Dee. A couple of ladies, seated next to us, enquired about our accents and then proceeded to chat to us about the highlights of the area and some local historical gossip, in particular ‘Plas Newydd’ most notable as the home where two Irish ladies, Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby (famously known as the Llangollen ladies) eloped and set up house together in the late 18th century, scandalising contemporary British Society. We strolled along the main street, lined with smaller shops offering their wares and Daryl bought an iconic Pork Pie to sample from the local butcher. We booked in for dinner at the Corn Mill, recommended by many on our journey, and it was fabulous. A warm evening, we were pleased to be able to enjoy our after dinner drinks on the balcony built over the river. The gushing of the water roaring over the rocks set a scenic backdrop to our night and provided a welcome cool breeze.
Earlier in the afternoon, with increasing temperatures, we boarded the train which would take us from Llangollen to Corwen station on the only standard gauge heritage railway in North Wales. The trip is ten miles in length through the Dee Valley, with five stations along the way, including the notable Horseshoe Falls. Daryl explored the Falls the next morning, while I enjoyed a sleep in. It is a three kilometre walk from the marina in most picturesque surroundings. Intending to get as far as Ellesmere by evening we set out on the canal to again cross the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in much calmer conditions.
Having arranged to meet Karen and Charles for dinner we enjoyed another lovely meal in the Ellesmere centre, regaling them with our adventurous tales, before returning to our floating home. Overnight we witnessed a magnificent thunderstorm including lightning and thunder. Unfortunately, it did not help reduce the temperatures or the humidity.
After a restless night, we set about finding some wifi to book a few things for our impending London trip and managed to waste a couple of hours, achieve very little while drinking mediocre hot chocolate. Giving up, with considerable grumbling we set out for the canal once again. The day continued as it started, and we ended up travelling along miles of farmland, mosses and meres, bitten by bugs, hot and cranky. The meres are located either side of Llangollen canal and collectively create what is known as Shropshire’s ‘Lakes District’. It is thought the meres were created by large blocks of ice left behind at the end of the last Ice Age. As the glaciers retreated the blocks of ice became buried beneath rock debris and when the ice melted hollows were left. These gradually became filled with water. The Mosses or raised bog is a section of the canal, between Whitchurch and Ellesmere, that originally cut through a large peat area approximately 8 kms long and 2.5 kms wide is home to a large range of wildlife.
It was in this region, while trying to do the right thing and allow the oncoming traffic right of passage through a narrow bridge, that I managed to beach our boat! Poor William was stuck fast in the mud and tree root growth that has managed to sneak into the canal edges. We weren’t moving. Daryl was on the barge pole, tied the rope from the front, but we stuck fast. As we have found on the canal, help is never far away. Two chaps from the oncoming boat had jumped to our assistance, they both grabbed the rope, full throttle forward, Daryl again giving his all heaving the barge pole. To many cheers, William was again mobile! Much thanks and waves were passed between all involved, just all part of the journey on the canals.
Trying to escape the humidity and the little critters, we stopped at Whitchurch to again try to get some internet connection and continue our London planning. After a very long, hilly walk into town, we downed a few drinks ( it was even too hot for alcohol for me!) and managed to book a couple of events. Side note, train travel in England is disgraceful, the cost is horrendous, even when you book ahead. London better be worth the cost to get there! When the pub got too hot, we walked back and continued boating into the cool of the evening and finally moored at Grindley Brook. The canal passes through the village of Grindley Brook rising/falling 12.1 metres via a three lock staircase flight just outside the village and then three further locks in the village. The staircase flight, the only one on this canal, is overlooked by a grand lock keeper’s cottage from where there is always a lock keeper on hand to help boaters. We were fortunate to have the lock keeper help on both trips through the staircase. Having someone on both sides, when going through locks in such quick succession, certainly makes it easier for the lock operator. In between going through the locks (we calculated we did 20 locks yesterday) we stopped at Wrenbury for two reasons.
1. It’s the only place to turn the boat around which we needed.
2. It has a pub (Dusty Miller’s) right on the canal, close to our mooring point.
Again, no air conditioner and it was clear the waitress was struggling in the heat, but the meal was fabulous. The town has an electric drawbridge that is key operated and impacts all traffic entering and exiting the main part of the village. Tractors laden with silage made steady tracks through the drawbridge yesterday, while we ate our lunch, and it was a sight we would not see often at home. Some of the equipment barely fit across the bridge and you could hear it groaning under the weight of the loads it was trying to support. It took us four hours to travel up the canal and only three hours on the return trip. It is amazing what a difference it makes with the boating traffic and lock positions. We lucked out a bit on the way out. Of the three draw bridges we needed to operate, one was locked open and this saves a good five to ten minutes each time.
Docking along the same stretch as the night before we chose to have left-overs for dinner and crashed in our camp chairs on the canal bank under the shade. The storms that were forecast didn’t eventuate in our neck of the woods, and we only had a few showers, adding to the humidity.
Today, has been a good day, we are enjoying a very relaxed trip back to Ellesmere, including a leisurely home cooked breakfast on the canal bank, before setting off and a simple lunch on the boat. We will be meeting Jenny and Pete again for tea tonight.
Along this journey we have met some interesting characters, fisherman, families travelling for the first time, reunited friends enjoying a different type of holiday, couples who go out for three months at a time every year on their narrow boat, foreigners who think it’s a bit of a blast to do this type of boating and singles who enjoy their own company, sometimes with a dog or two, or occasionally a cat as they cruise around the UK. For us, it has been the most unique experience so far. Totally independent, we have set our own course and speed, dealt with a range of challenges, including a blocked kitchen sink (thanks to the previous incumbent pushing a straw into the pipe work), and managed to still like each other after living in very close quarters 24/7. We quickly learnt to shower in the evening, after the motor had run long enough to heat the water, and while we were there to wash our clothes so they could be hung, for all to see, the following day on the boat rails outside. We have been the inadvertent subject of many holiday snaps as people seem quite taken by the narrow boats. One young lad, asked to take a photo alongside the boat as his name was William also. Too cute!
Daryl’s parents undertook a similar journey some 25 years ago and I wonder if a seed was planted into Daryl’s subconscious way back then. Max has been a firm supporter of our plan to travel the canals and the trip itself. I take my hat off to Max and Enid for doing their UK adventure without a GPS. Not sure we would have been so successful. Max has called us a couple of times, despite the exorbitant cost of an overseas call, just to be sure we are ok, he really does make our day. Along the way we have managed to message home, call the kids a few times and even video chat some of the grandkids. Home is not far away now, in fact only two weeks.
I have been asked on a number of occasions if the canal trip is what I expected and honestly it is, and it isn’t. The narrow boats, provide an opportunity to slow down, this takes some getting used to. Limited internet access is challenging, indefinite periods of cruising along the countryside with no sounds other than the bird life or your partner, allows much time for reflection and pause. With all this time, I could have read a novel or two. I brought them, but the reality is, I didn’t want to. Nature is quietly magnetic, drawing you into her world, therapeutic and soul soothing. It is indeed unique.
Would I do it again? In a heart beat, in a different canal, with the same partner, any day of the week ( preferably not in summer though)
Until next time,
N
