One of the issues with travelling through foreign countries is sometimes getting your facts correct. So in my musings and muddling, touring and tasting I have got my Ireland’s mixed up. Hence, when I can I will be changing the name to our album once again. Northern Ireland is part of the UK, speaking in the imperial language while Ireland is fiercely independent of the UK and holds fast to its Celtic-Gaelic origins. My apologies to anyone of either persuasion who may have been confused or offended.
Despite my error, the reality is that both countries are startling and inspiring. Architecture, landscape and shores with cliffs that would rival the most magnificent in the world. Yet they both carry the scars and stain from bloodshed spilled throughout its turbulent history.
Once in Northern Ireland we were keen to explore some of their wilderness and as always we were drawn to the coast. A short drive from our castle, Ballygally, we arrived at Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge. Carrick-a-Rede from the Scottish Gaelic Carraig-a-Rade means rock in the road. The road is the sea route for Atlantic salmon on their westward journey past Carrick island. The story states that for over 350 years fisherman strung a rope bridge 30 metres above the sea to allow them access to the best places to catch migrating salmon. The bridge is now a destination to thousands of tourists who brave the winds and cross the bridge, 60 metres in length supported by rope and fashioned with two timber planks placed side by side to walk on. Getting to the bridge is a feat
on its own. My hips let me know on both lengths of the journey that they did not appreciate my efforts. Gently supported and encouraged by Daryl I managed the short but steep decent to the bridge and then crossed it. My reality is simple, do things in spite of hip pain, otherwise I will end up the size of an ancient castle, crusty and cranky and dead from boredom. Recently I commented to a friend that you learn to live with chronic pain and simply manage the ferocity of it rather than try to avoid it. So onwards and upwards over rocky gravel tracks, steps of varying depths and steepness to experience the bridge walk. What a sight it is, sheer majesty at every turn. The first cross over was hesitant, as the bridge sways and bounces, with up to eight people on it at any one time. I couldn’t look down but focussed on the end of the bridge. Daryl, more confident than I, was also a bit more cautious, placing feet carefully on the planks, although I was sure it was him who was making the bridge bounce unnecessarily. He says he didn’t!
The smell of bird faeces is unpleasant, so watch which way the wind blows. Again, like the Cliffs of Moher, the protection of the coastline provides an ideal sanctuary for thousands of birds. The water is clear and you can see large crabs scurrying over the floating circular masses of seaweed. The calmness of the sea today invites you to think about kayaking along its shore but I have no doubt when the fierce winds blow it would be a fatal decision to be out in the water.
People from all parts of the world conversed, gasped for breath and struggled up the journey. We picked languages including a French, Spanish, German and Chinese and American. Some people clearly researched their destination and dressed appropriately for the walk in walking shoes and light weight clothing along with a water bottle, others packed for unexpected storms carrying mountains of jackets while parents trudged along with children, their packs and favoured toys, then there is the few who must look their best on all occasions and who look ridiculous clambering up and down a mountain in coiffed hair, wedged heels and silk pants!
Some people brought their dogs for a walk, but they along with any other animals, apart from humans are not allowed on the bridge. A short walk from the car park is a lime quarry based on Sheep Island- the sign board reads it was named so because it was considered to have been able to “fatten 9, feed 10 ten and starve 11 sheep”.
Further along the road heading to Giant’s Causeway we found the perfect location - where the wildness of the coast meets the soft sands of a small secluded beach, where your front door opens to the North Atlantic sea, protected by the cliffs and creating a sheltered cove. If we were exceptionally wealthy I would move our family here and take over the little village - what a delightful dream.
Moving on we ventured to the Giant’s Causeway and marvelled at the work of nature. Here our membership to the National Trust came in handy for the second time, saving us quite a few pounds. We appreciated the advice given to us before we left to take out membership (thanks Sue & Tony). The Giant’s Causeway is a must see and defies imagination, as does the tall tale of Finn (the creative giant who created the rocky masterpiece). The Causeway is described as an area of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the result of an ancient volcanic figure eruption. It was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1986 and was named the fourth greatest natural wonder in the United Kingdom. The tops of the columns form stepping stones that lead from the cliff foot and disappear under the sea. Most of columns are hexagonal in shape and thousands of tourists walk across them, experiencing a mesmerising view. We walked the long, slow decent to the base of the Causeway, but piked it coming up and took the bus ( free forNational Trust members!) back up the mountain.
With aching bones and muscles complaining from over activity, we got back in our little hire car and hit the road for Londonderry about an hours drive away. Passing picture postcard scenery we noted the coloured doors, reminiscent of Ireland and other parts of the UK. Grey drab, often stone walled buildings are painted with colourful walls, window panes and doors, most choose a bright red to greet their guests. This brightens up what could be a very dull street. Flower pots both hanging and at ground level are also prolific in the UK. The mass of colour from the flowers at this time of year is abundant and makes you feel positive just seeing them. Another quirky feature of the UK, making our trip a little slower, are tractors laden with hay mowers in front as well as both sides returning home from a long’s day work. Tractors travel on the UK roads without concern, it seems a normal practice. As this is summer and the height of hay cutting season, it is expected to see at least two or three tractors a trip.
Once arriving, naturally we found another pub, this one called Granny Annie’s in the walled city of Londonderry. Another cider and gin and tonic were quickly ordered. We had earned a drink and a rest. Daryl sampled the local cod with traditional mushy peas and was pleased with the result. The pub, like all that we have visited to date, is quirky and unique, this one has a particular upside down theme to it with walls of clocks - really how could we not stop here!!
Hydrated and fed we took a stroll to the Derry Wall. Derry or Londonderry to some, has a long violent history most well known for the Siege of Derry in 1689 which held for 105 days of battle. More recently the Battle of Bogside known as Bloody Sunday marked the start of the Troubles in 1972. It is written that 14 innocents were killed during a volatile protest in the city. Daryl and I walked the Derry Walls after dinner. These walls are iconic and the 17th century enclosure has
seven gates and 24 restored cannons. The view from the walls is spectacular and you can see the vast city which lays below for miles. The cemetery is a stand out for its size alone. From the walls you can also see the famous Derry murals depicting the Troubles. They are confronting and remind us that the Troubles are not necessarily over. For us, coming from a foundation of peace and freedom, it is hard to fathom the terror and fear represented in the murals and the stories that line the Derry walls on plaques. Leaving Derry we returned to the castle about quarter to eleven to find the twilight just setting in over the sea.
Northern Ireland is a land of contrasts, stark natural beauty with stories of violence everywhere. The people are passionate, friendly and there is a sense of loyalty and pride about them when you talk to them. The Ballygally castle while grand and carefully restored is also steeped in violence and reported to be one of the worlds most haunted castles. While we have not
experienced any encounters with the afterlife, the stories are long about those who have or have tried to meet the elusive ghost. One tale reads of a castle owner whose wife bore him a daughter, desperate for a heir he was reputedly so angry he locked her in the tower of the castle to starve as punishment, her screams went unanswered and desperate to see her daughter one last time, threw herself out the tower windows, falling to her death. It is reported she haunts the room every night with guests and journalists alike fleeing the room once her presence is felt. Others have reported seeing her standing in the room watching over them! Again fact and folklore fill the ancient buildings of Northern Ireland and the tourist industry now flourishes on the back of them. A leisurely start to the day we enjoyed the castle for one last morning before heading off for Belfast to explore all it has to offer.
Belfast greeted us with crazy roundabouts and confusing signs, as the driver, I was a little intimidated by the traffic going off in all directions, again without the use of blinkers! Regardless
we made it to our destination of the Titanic museum. Set in The Titanic Quarter, it is well worth the visit. It took us over two hours to get through the displays, including a four dimensional multi level interactive ride through the ships hull during construction. The displays extend over nine galleries and paint a picture of Belfast through the booming years until the fatal collision of the famous Titanic. A sad story, again highlighting the class divide between the rich and poor and the discrimination common in that era.
Having only a short stay in Belfast we decided to jump on the On/Off Bus Tour enjoying the sunshine from the open top and spent nearly two hours touring the city sights. Our tour guide, Daniel, was a wealth of information and a comedic entertainer all in one package. We took in a range of places including parliament buildings, the river Lagan, Saint George’s Market, Victoria Square Mall, The Cathedral Quarter, Saint Anne’s Cathedral, Clifton Street Poor House, The Crumlin Road Gaol and Courthouse, the Belfast Peace Wall, the Shankill Road and political mural walls, the Falls Road political wall, Queen’s University, Belfast City Hall and the Crown Liquor Saloon. The most fascinating part was the peace gates separating the two sectors on Belfast - Catholics and Protestants occupy two defined sectors of town, separated by a single street. Each night at 7 pm the gates are closed ensuring neither sector can disturb the other. These peace gates are then reopened at 7 am. Somehow the word peace seems a contradictory term held together with a fine length of hope.
Now sailing on the Stena line ferry towards Scotland, we bid Farewell to Northern Ireland and are thankful for the opportunity to experience an Irish adventure.
Until next time,
N
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