Venturing up the north west coast of Scotland we shared the driving, choosing the scenic drives wherever possible, while these are shorter in distance they are longer in time due the windy nature of the roads, with steep inclines and descents in equal measure. Many sections feature the original stone walls, while a few patches have guard rails but in most instances there is a direct view to the bottom of the cliff face from the passengers side. This can be quite heart wrenching, and on more than one occasion the front tyre was barely on the roadside as Daryl gave way to oncoming traffic. Passing patches (car park size) are built into the mountainside, and I suspect many drivers, especially those owning Land Rovers use them as a rally track. I worry for the numerous cyclists, and there were plenty of them who pedal these mountains. They are at risk of collision at all times as there is no shoulder for them to escape traffic. Most drivers are patient but I must admit we met our fair share of ignorant drivers over the past few days who are clearly in a hurry (possibly to their graves).
Yesterday, we travelled to our first stop of Ullapool, where we found an antique shop, which was really a lot of junk and an inspiring gallery with collections of paintings unique to the area. We even enquired about sending some home, but decided against it after issues with shipping glass sounded to difficult. Another book store filled with wonderful temptations was found and on a tiny notice on the door I found the story of the “Hector” - a ship made famous for having been part of the first significant migration of Scottish settlers to Nova Scotia in 1773. A quirky fact for the children back home. In honour of the ship they have also produced a stout called the Hector! If only it was palatable we would bring some home. Enjoying a stroll by the water, we passed so many B&Bs and ended up at a tiny cove by which time we were chilled and in need of some munchies. Once satisfied with local sweet treats, we set off for Lochinver and found these terrific fishing streams, well maintained and set in the valleys on the way. The videos attached to the Facebook album has a recording of one of them. A little disappointed with the town, which in itself had little charm, we ignored the bookshop sign, in consideration of the narrow, windy roads and expectations that it was not worth the hassle. Really, who puts a book store in the middle of nowhere! However, the tummies were again rumbling and Daryl spotted a cafe specialising in homemade pies. This unassuming, narrow village redeemed itself with an amazing late lunch. Not only was the food delicious, but the staff were friendly and welcoming.
Continuing our drive through hamlets, via windy goat tracks, we dodged more sheep, cyclists and motor homes negotiating some very tricky hairpin bends and ended up in Scourie. Staying at another random B&B we were pleasantly surprised to drive up to a very stately homestead, restored to its former glory, overlooking the bay. Scourie Lodge was built in 1835 by the Duke of Sutherland for his new bride, however history tells us that she didn’t like it. The residence changed hands over the course of the years and a walled garden was established with many trees now aged more than 150 years. During the Second World War, the Lodge and gardens fell into ruins and it wasn’t until the mid 1970s that it was bought by a Swiss gentleman who spent a small fortune renovating and restoring Scourie Lodge. With prestigious views and a warm welcome it is well recommended to any traveller, taking on the whole or part of Scotland’s North Coast 500 ( the equivalent of the US Route 66).
Today we road-tripped to a tiny fishing hamlet of Kylesku and took on a sea journey on the “Rachael Clare” to experience the heart of the Highland from a different perspective. During our journey we saw the ‘Eas a Chual Aluinn’ the highest waterfalls in the UK, local seal colonies with their new pups and world famous geological sites, along with some of the most severe coastline you will see. The hour and half trip was shared with four other tourists, a couple from Spain and another from Edinburgh. We nearly didn’t make the trip as it was originally booked out. With our original plans to explore nearby Handa Island, by foot going pear shaped, thanks to the weather, we decided at the last minute to drive down to the ferry regardless and see if they had a spot. The weather forecast was poor with heavy cloud, poor visibility and rain predicted for the day. The forecasters were correct and as we were chatting to the booking people, a phone call came in cancelling a couple’s tour. I took this as good karma, while Daryl said it was probably like the Titanic where people who shouldn’t have got tickets did, and then perished! Obviously, I was correct on this occasion, otherwise you would not be reading this tale. Our guide James and his first mate Pete were friendly and full of information. James, originally from the south of England was so enamoured with the Scottish Highlands and exquisite fishing in the area he moved to the town of Scourie about 10 years ago. He now runs the local hotel and the boat cruises but no longer fishes. It is clear he is passionate about the history of the place and the conservation of the land. He shared stories of the hardship of landholders from years gone by as well as the current challenges facing residents today. Their biggest problem is the control of red deer, who though beautiful to look at, are depleting the landscape of any trees and vegetation. Fishing it seems is a rich man’s sport now, and the cost of participating is high.
Last night we had dinner at the local hotel, which turns out to be the elite fisherman’s hotel. Apparently no televisions are needed in this establishment as ‘real fisherman’ have no requirement of one. So, instead, large trophies line the walls of the hotel along with an array of fishing paraphernalia. We enjoyed a lovely dinner, Daryl sampled their fresh scallops ( delicious I’m assured) while I had the Salmon. This was well enjoyed after another long day travelling and touring the coast from the Isle of Skye to our Scourie B&B. After dinner we explored the coastline, including a tiny stretch of sand, not commonly seen in this part of the world and the local cemetery. Well maintained, the cemetery is like reading a history book, with many of the gravestones providing information about family genealogy, careers, responsibilities in the community to means of death.
As previously mentioned we spent the day before exploring the Isle of Skye. Again the weather was unkind and several layers were needed anytime you stepped out of the car. However, we ignored the enduring rain and stopped frequently. Tiny villages, tourist filled streets and rugged coastline filled our day, along with a few ruins, gift shops, castles and churches. The history of these places is is outstanding, along with the brutality. The Isle of Skye, like so many other regions is the result of bloody wars and feuds between clans, governments of the day and the aristocracy. Again the depravity of humans and capacity to inflict cruelty on another person is pronounced with every castle visit we do. A stand out at Dunvegan castle was the use of a dungeon, located next to the kitchen, whereby ‘prisoners’ were placed in a deep hole and left to die by starvation. Set in pitch blackness, with no way out, the prisoner was tortured by the smells of cooking from the adjoining room with no ability to have any food or drink. A gruesome and cruel practice. No wonder there are so many historians in Britain.
Today’s journey sees us finish the north west coast with our final destination the lighthouse in Stoer, which, if ever we return, we can rent for a week and be pretend lighthouse keepers. Something to consider.
Strangely however, we needed to go back through Lochinver, and today decided we would tackle the windy, narrow roads and investigate this bookshop. Located about a mile up a goats track, is the Inverkarkaig bookstore and cafe! Was it worth the detour - probably not; did we buy things- off course, despite the cranky store keeper, who seemed more annoyed by his many visitors than pleased for their custom.
So it turns out in Scotland anywhere is a tourist destination action!
Back to the lighthouse. Stoer Head Lighthouse is one of 200 lighthouses located on the coastline of Scotland and is approximately 150 years old. Like all other lighthouses in Scotland it is now operated automatically. After freezing our butts ( Daryl was in shorts!!) admiring the view, and taking the obligatory photos, I had seen enough. The arctic wind that blows off the ocean hurts your brain after a while. Amazingly there was a quaint little coffee house called The Jammery on the way down from the cliffs. It is the tiniest cafe I have ever been in, but the warmth and generosity of the owners was worth the stop. Despite it being right on closing time, they welcomed us in and made lovely hot chocolates for us. Chatting away amicably, there was a sense of great achievement amongst the young owners, who having decided to settle in the coastal community, started their business three years ago. Essentially a room built near their house turned into a stopping point for tourists hankering for some caffeine and home baked treats. The coffee man explained they used to live in the bigger cities but said it was lonelier there, amongst hundreds of other people, than where they are now. He said now they lived in a community which includes the sheep with their lambs that graze freely on these coastal roads weaving in and out of peoples yards seeking fresh grass. He said the bonus is he never has to mow his lawn. Clearly the sheep are well fed, with round bellies, tags and robust babies following along, blissfully unafraid of the tourist traffic. It is clear who has right of way.
We have returned to our home for the second night and right now we are simply relaxing with a glass of wine on a comfy couch. The tv is off and our hosts Angus and Elisabeth, are most accommodating, even running to our rescue when we set the smoke alarm off trying to get the heater to work.
While Daryl plans tomorrow’s southerly expedition, I am tapping away, missing home and looking forward to the next part of our tour, all at the same time.
Until next time,
N
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